Darcy Rive, editor of HISKIND, was down in London last week checking out the latest menswear trends of AW17. Here’s his report on the big trends you can expect to see later this year…
When London launched a fashion week dedicated solely to menswear in 2012, it brought about a seismic shift in the fashion industry. In the last five years, the menswear market has radically expanded, its esteem soared and its boundaries pushed.
The newly rebranded London Fashion Week Men’s (formerly London Collections: Men) is now a stronghold of the British fashion industry, displaying the vision, talent and creativity of its designers.
The Autumn/Winter 2017 showcase revealed a more relaxed, playful and irreverent approach to menswear. Across the board, brands were more adventurous with colour, cut and silhouette. While the traditions of menswear still have their place, London’s AW17 season showed a rebellious attitude to the establishment – a feeling that certainly transcends fashion in this volatile climate.
As we look forward to AW17, here are our favorite trends to watch our for:
The Future is Bright
In 2017 the fashion forecast is bright – fluorescently so. Shirking the tendency of winter months to offer darker, richer tones, AW17 sees brazen pinks at Topman Design and highlighter yellows at Christopher Shannon. The full spectrum of the rave rainbow can also be seen at Liam Hodges, J.W.Anderson and Sibling. This trend can be incorporated into your wardrobe with fluorescent accessories or one-off pieces, or you can dare to go head-to-toe psychedelic with clashing colours.
All in Proportion
Season by season, designers have been moving away from the skinny fit to play with proportions and volume. London favorites Agi & Sam sent oversized jackets and coats down the runway, which was also seen at E. Tautz and Joseph. Fashion East alum Craig Green added volume in wide leg trousers, and was joined by the likes of Astrid Andersen and Martine Rose. One oversized piece can be juxtaposed against more fitted garments to emphasise the design, or as many designers did, combine a number of bigger pieces in one outfit.
While London will always be renowned for its tailoring and Savile Row suiting, a new generation of designers are forging the city’s reputation for sportswear. Christopher Raeburn’s powder blue tracksuits cement the sport staple as stylish and practical while the tucked-in hoodie at Liam Hodges shows attitude and playfulness. Bobby Abley introduced the cropped top into his tracksuits – while this isn’t the most conducive design feature for colder months, it certainly pushes the boundaries of athleisure and menswear.
Seventies references have infiltrated menswear for quite a few seasons now, bringing back the roll neck jumper as a wardrobe favorite. For AW17, the roll neck gets higher and thicker. Brands such as Oliver Spencer and Casely-Hayford paired it will classic-cut coats while fashion pioneer J.W.Anderson served it in voluminous knits. Wear your roll neck under your shirt for a more sophisticated, considered look.
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