Darcy Rive, editor of HISKIND, gives us his take on some of the hottest emerging womenswear designers to keep an eye out for…
When it comes to dressing the modern woman, it is perhaps the modern woman that knows best. Emerging female designers across the globe are debuting collections to dress, inspire and empower the women of today, whether that’s in an everyday blouse or a knockout gown. Standing out for their creativity, talent and vision, we have chosen our favourite new names. Although these female designers are new on scene, they’re already taking the industry by storm.
Few emerging designers of late have garnered acclaim like Molly Goddard. The London-born and based designer, who graduated from internationally renowned Central Saint Martins with a Master’s degree in Fashion Knitwear, has earned herself a big fashion following with her childhood fancy dress inspired collection. She does detailed smocks and blooming tulle dresses, and isn’t afraid of bright colours and bold patterns. Add in a New Gen award from the British Fashion Council, a nod from the LVMH Prize and a collaboration with High Street superbrand Topshop, and we are expecting great things from Ms Molly.
All things Scandinavian are growing in popularity, from lifestyles to interiors, and now Scandi-fashion is capturing the hearts and wardrobes of the fashion pack. Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen made her mark during Copenhagen Fashion Week with her uniform-inspired collection. She showed considered tailoring, a use of delicate and feminine fabrics and a nuanced approach to embellishment with quilted jackets, ruffled blouses and lace details. She is adventurous with her silhouettes, toying with structured shoulders, peplum waists and proportioned hems – something she must have learned when interning for fashion great John Galliano. She is definitely one to watch.
Paris-based designer Marine Serre doesn’t do classic French style. Graduating from the prestigious La Cambre Mode(s) Belgian Fashion Design School and cutting her teeth at Maison Martin Margiela, Serre’s aesthetic is rooted in brave and experimental design. Combining 19th century Arabic luxury with 90s sports style, she clashes cultures, colours and prints. Day dresses are made to look like athleisure wear, running tops are paired with voluminous striped skirts, and tailored jackets and waistcoats are piped with reflective sports stripes. Her pieces are fun, slick and irreverent.
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Madrid-born and New York-based designer Alejandra Rojas apprenticed under a master menswear tailor, which is something she has translated into womenswear designs. Dresses, skirts and coats are cut impeccably, in materials such as suede, leather and wool. She is also a fourth generation hand-knitter, as shown in her love of oversized jumpers, cable patterns and crocheted dresses. With a muted colour palette and classic shapes, Rojas finds that perfect line between tradition and commercial appeal.
Still in its first year, Italian brand Attico was widely regarded as ‘one to watch’ at Milan Fashion Week – and with good reason. Proving that two is better than one, the brand was founded by street style darlings Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, who each brought a different aesthetic to the design process. The resulting Attico is a beautiful hybrid of old world glamour and nostalgia mixed with new age appeal and contemporary wearability. Wrap dresses are embellished with lobster motifs, blouses come in shocking pink and slip dresses are heavily sequined, showing the brand’s sense of fun and irreverence. They’re the ones to watch – and we like what we see.